Not quite McCalls 7022

Wow, it’s been far too long since my last update.   I’ve got a few new things to load, but getting the photography done seems to be the major sticking point for me.

Since I last updated the blog, I completed a pattern drafting course at Sydney Community College . It was a terrific course where we learned to work with block patterns and made perfectly fitting slopers.    The women (and one guy) in the course were lovely.   We ranged in age from about 22 to 50 and all had sewing in common.

Using my newfound knowledge and some plaid fabric I’d bought at my favourite sewing upcycling store, I decided to draft and sew a woolen skirt based on McCalls 7022


The pattern has a bias cut yoke which sits below the waist and inward facing pleats on the side.

While my drafting of the pattern went really well, I struggled with the bias cut yoke stretching.   Why is it that I never remember to stay stitch the edges?!

In our course, our teacher had taught us about using ‘Tearaway’ to help stabilise curved and bias seams.  Also the idea of ironing the newly cut piece straight onto interfacing and then cutting the interfacing around the fabric was an epiphany.    So after getting the yoke back into shape, I was in business.


We also learned that pleats should face outwards, not inwards.   However, I decided to try them facing inwards because it’s what I was inspired by.   Big mistake.  Those inward facing pleats were very unflattering and made me look far much wider.   Likewise, the dropped waist was incredibly unflattering.   The upshot being that I essentially copied the pattern but changed it so that the pleats faced inwards and with the waist sitting at natural level.  I also lined the skirt because the wool was quite itchy at first.   After a few washes, it feels much nicer.




So here’s the final version.   I spent lots of time getting the plaid balanced each side and also lined up perfectly on the back seam and zip.

I think I spent half of winter in this skirt.   It’s just so comfy and flattering.



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